Not Just Tofu - Sumedang Street Food

Sumedang is famous for its tofu; Tahu Sumedang as people used to say, is so tender and sweet, it tastes almost like milk. But there are more than just that. I  got a chance to see and sample a few while enjoying the street life of this city.

Sumedang Fresh Air

Pure and simple is beauty...

Art Deco in Sumedang

In the same compound with Prabu Geusan Ulun Museum Sumedang, Even before we enter the area, standing proud a less old building than the rest of its neighbor a massive structure with complex roofing.

I have no information about this building, when it was built, who's the architect and so forth; only that people call it Gedong Kabupaten ( Regency Office ). It's a typical Indonesian art deco architecture; simple stepped forms and repeating geometrical patterns, married with the traditional style roof and local ornaments (mostly adopted from Hindu temples) as embellishment. You'd see such style also in Bandung, capital of West Java. Gedung Sate, for instance, has the same concept with this building. Anyone can share more info about this?

Anyway, whatever it is, it's a beautiful building.

All That Glitters

There are many interesting objects displayed at the museum Prabu Geusan Ulun, Sumedang. But what caught my sight was the shiny gold crown and other jewels and finery. If you say all that glitters isn't gold, it doesn't work here in this museum. All's gold here.

Below are the Siger Binokasih Sanghyang Pake Crown and its accessories, made in gold. 

It is said to be the heritage given from an older kingdom, Pajajaran.

The Ki Dukun Kris - belonged to King Prabu Gajah Agung, son of King Prabu Tajimalela, 

reigned as the third king of Sumedang Larang Kingdom (893-993AD) .

Gamelan of Sumedang Larang

Prabu Geusan Ulun Museum in Sumedang houses at least 7 sets of gamelan instruments made around 17-19th century. Each has its own unique story, especially these two below.


Gamelan Prawan

Gamelan Sari Oneng Mataram was a present from Mataram kingdom. Story has it that this set of beautiful instrument was won over a candlenut match between the commander of Sumedang and Mataram during the rule of Pangeran Rangga Gempol III (1656 -1706).  

As you can see from its name, this set of gamelan is obviously a Javanese one. Made in Mataram, the carving shows a strong character of Mataram style, and the tone is pelog. 

Gajah Mina - body of a snake with elephant head and wearing crown-
carved as the finial of the gong holder. A symbol of wisdom, a remnants of Hindu culture.

Gamelan Sari Oneng Parakan Salak

My heart was almost jumped out seeing this gamelan. Never seen such uniquely carved gamelan ever! The ancak ( body/frame) of the gamelan was carved in Thailand using ironwood so it has a chinoiserie look, and painted in blue while the metal instrument was forged in Sumedang around 1825. Some instruments have lion head in each side, while other has dragon. And you have to know this: this is the very gamelan that Claude Debussy seen and heard that inspired him to compose his masterpieces when Sari Oneng took part in Exposition Universelle in Paris, 1889.

After its big tour in Europe and USA( 1883-1898), the gong somehow left in Amsterdam, until a century later, when the Gong Gede was finally returned.

The Lost - and found- gong of Gamelan Sari Oneng Parakan Salak

A Beautiful Building in An Old Town

Sumedang, West Java, is an old town rich in history that is often being forgotten. I visited its museum finally for the first time -Museum Prabu Geusan Ulun- and really in love with the building. A colonial architecture that simple in details, humble but grand at the same time.

Built in 1706, Gedong Sri Manganti - the name of this building, which means the building to wait for important people - was also formerly known as Land Huizen. It has a long history as government formal residence before it's turned into museum in1974.

 Gedong Bumi Kaler

Gedong Bumi Kaler ( the North House ) is another building in the Museum Complex, was built in 1850, in the reign of Bupati Pangeran Soeria Koesoemah Adinata / Pangeran Sugih who ruled Sumedang between 1836 – 1882. This house is very simple in look, the only ornament is the crisscrossed trellis window, with the flower ornament in some crossing sections.

For more detailed story and history of the Museum, please visit the official museum blog, here or wikipedia, here ( too bad it's only available in bahasa Indonesia )